Sensitivity and Strength

"At Dior I feel especially responsible for what I've created myself, and at Dior I feel responsible for what Christian Dior has created, his goal, his philosophy and aim."

- Raf Simons, Creative Director of Christian Dior, Pre-Spring 2013 

Heritage, an inherent theme which runs throughout Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The overtly feminine feel, decorative flowers and reinvention of Dior’s classic ‘Bar’ jacket. Simons undisputedly draws inspiration from the past whilst looking to the future. 

“Purity and precision”. Simons goal, to “concentrate on a line that expressed an idea of femininity, fragility and sensitivity without sacrificing strength.” As the clean-cut, minimalist garments hit the runway, the feminine essence of Dior engulfs the catwalk. Dior’s designs explored a language of flowers that exalted a woman's beauty. This floral theme is inherent in todays show. Surrounded by a lavish garden of flowers, the collection evokes Christian Dior’s impressionist influences. The stunning set immerses the audience into the magnificent scent of 300,000 delphiniums. Like John Galliano so respectfully did before him, Simons pays tribute to Dior’s flower-like women. Appearing on the catwalk as tall stems amongst a garden of flowers. Delicate pastel fabrics, rounded hems and detailed embroidered pieces. As Dior intended, the garments offer women a feeling of elegance, luxury, and most importantly, femininity.

Yes, the core of the collection fulfills Christian Dior’s obsession for sophisticated elegance. But, Simons injects a modern touch. The straight-line jackets, bold vertical stripes, cropped sweaters and flowing skirts. A renewal of femininity. The show is encapsulated by the eerily powerful Picnic at Hanging Rock (1975) background music. This victorian influence diffuses into the collection. Numerical ‘1947’ chokers tie the looks together. A subtle reminded to the history of Dior. 

Let’s look a little closer into the modern aesthetic. The collection opens with the ‘Bar’ jacket. Paired with a clean scalloped hem two-piece, the jacket draws parallels to the master’s debut collection. The 1947 ‘Bar’ suit displayed Dior's desire to restore the values of femininity lost during the Second World War (1939-1945). Carmel Snow, editor of Harper’s Bazaar coined Dior’s debut collection, the ‘New Look’. 

But, the originality of Dior's designs has long been contested. Balenciaga’s 1939 hollywood inspired, silk ‘Velasquez’ dress draws a distinctive resemblance. Look back further to Paul Poiret’s, 1913 kimono-styled, lampshade-skirted dress. Perhaps Dior’s ‘New Look’ wasn't so new after all. Yet, the affliction remains. On the runway today, Simons pays tribute to this. Notably, the reworked ‘Bar’ jacket does not share Dior’s architectural silhouette aesthetic. But, the dropped black wool reinvention cleverly incorporates the 1947 collection. Titled 'Corolla', the name represented Dior’s hourglass figure eight structures. An arrangement of lines which brought overall harmony to his designs. Simons details the victorian chokers with the number '8', symbolising this. Fusing together past, present and future. 

Yes, Simons has achieved his responsibility. Staying faithful to the cruxes of Dior, whilst paying homage to the past. A revival and renewal of the couture house. The collection projects empowerment, movement, modern elegance. A strength Simons did not care to sacrifice.