The Authorship of the Artist

“The latest fashion...is absolutely necessary for a painting. It’s what matters most.” - Edouard Manet, 1881 

Dior, a brand obsessed with flowers. Silhouettes, materials, catwalks, photo shoots, collection names, perfumes. The list goes on. Captivating the senses, flowers immerse us into the dream-like world of Dior. Embedded deep within the roots, the influence has made Dior the iconic brand it is today. Growing and flourishing into beauty and elegance. Dior’s connection with flowers stems back to a time before the existence of the brand. Granville, a seaside villa on the cliffs of Normandy. Where Christian Dior grew up, surrounded by landscape and beauty. "By nature I am drawn to the past". Childhood memories, immortalized into garments. But, Dior wasn't alone in his tranquil garden. Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet, Paul Cezanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir (to name a few) walked before him. The great impressionists. An artistic movement enthused by contemporary colour, enriching landscapes into thick oil impastos. A revolutionary style in modern art. A movement which encompasses the essence of Dior. 

Take Raf Simons debut collection at Dior for example. Christian Dior, Haute Couture, Autumn/Winter 2012. A breathtaking collection, closing with a strapless white organza dress. A dress which draws parallels to multiple impressionists. Oscar-Claude Monet springs to mind. Like Dior, Monet was also inspired by Normandy’s landscape. Monet’s The Artist’s Garden at Giverny, 1990. A sea of lilac and blue shades bring nature to life. A colour pallet which no doubt inspired the petals covering Simons design. The dotted chiffon formation evokes similarities to the pointillism of George Seurat. A Neo-Impressionists who created his works through tiny dots of colour. Colours, shapes, patterns, the impressionist influences are endless. Impressions Dior, 2013 exhibition paid tribute to this relationship. But, Simons takes the connection between fashion and art one step further. His AW12 couture show also incorporates the work of multidisciplinary artist Sterling Ruby. Simons innovatively translates Ruby’s abstract canvases into haute couture. A collaboration which makes us question the line between art and fashion. 

Of course, Dior is not the first designer to be influenced by the impressionist movement. The relationship dates back to the 1860‘s. As impressionism emerged, Paris became the fashion capital of the world. No, this was not a coincidence. A time when mass media and elaborate fashion shows didn't exist. The elite found inspiration in art. Fashion became direct copies of the impressionists depictions of modern life. The artist became the designer.

Claude Monet, Madame Louis Joachim Gaudibert, 1865 - American Day Dress, 1865
Claude Monet, Women in the Garden, 1866 - French Day Dress 1862

It’s fair to say that Dior respectfully extracts elements of impressionism into his designs. Unlike the 19th century, Dior does not draw directly from the art works. But, this is not always the case in 21st century fashion. Take Victor & Rolf’s, Haute Couture, Spring 2015 show. The architecturally constructed dresses act as works of art in themselves. But, the designs borrow patterns and pallets from Van Gogh’s trademark pieces. Rodarte’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection also copies the work of Van Gogh. Less of an influence and more of a direct replica. Authorship, authority and ownership come into question. The impressionists presence in fashion, as evident today as it was in the 19th century.   

As Raf Simons steps down from Dior this week the artistic direction of the fashion house is left in question. Will Phoebe Philo add a youthful edge to the brand? Will Alber Elbaz continue the impressionist influences? Only time will tell.