Tailoring the Trend

"I am aiming to bring more modernity to Dior, I think that's what Dior has really missed" - Raf Simons, Creative Director of Christian Dior, Pre-Spring 2013 

Modernity, a powerful trend emerging throughout the Spring/Summer 2016 shows. Simons tailored jackets and loose fitting trousers are a far cry from Dior’s 1947 ‘Bar’ jacket. But, this functioning, modern aesthetic descended long before Dior’s structured silhouettes. 

August 3rd, 1914, the First World War. A defining moment in women's fashion. Practicality, independence, freedom and equality. A new world needed a new wardrobe. Coco Chanel’s revolutionary suit symbolized the 1920‘s social and political advances. Masculine inspired couture garments embraced the emancipation of women. "The fashion statement of the century". Indeed, by 1928 the first-wave of feminism was accomplished. Western women were given the right to vote. Feminism and fashion walked hand in hand. A new wardrobe for a new woman.  

Coco Chanel, Signature Cardigan Jacket, 1927

Yet, three decades later in 1947 Dior’s vision of femininity abolished the Modern Woman aesthetic. Corseted silhouettes restricted women, trapping them into pre-war fashion values. Women were once again objects, to be looked at. 

Christian Dior, Bar Jacket, 1947

And breath. Today, the oversized jackets and slouchy trousers mark an entirely new vision. Simons aim to ‘bring more modernity to Dior’. A controversially masculine edge applied to a feminine brand. Clean cut, sharp tailored suits hit the runway. Juxtaposed against cropped tops and feminine accessories. Simons relaxed two-pieces creates a fresh, cosmopolitan look. A modern city style with a sprinkle of classic Dior femininity.

Relaxed masculine tailoring is a look which goes far beyond the realms of Dior this season. A new silhouette is spotted all over the SS16 catwalk. Chloe, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Versace and of course Chanel present interpretations of the menswear-inspired trend. 

Spring/Summer 2016 is all about embracing a new mood of femininity. Todays trouser suit is not only a practical, political statement. It’s a style. A style no doubt influenced by Saint Laurent’s iconic 1967 three-piece evening suit. Masculinity made sexy. This season Hedi Slimane teams the oversized suit with a glossy camisole and sparking tiara. Karl Lagerfeld presents comfortable boucle jackets for the glamourous traveller. Clare Waight Keller mixes romantic feminine lace with seventies inspired cut and wellington boots. Alessandro Michele presents shimmering shades and geometric prints. And Donatella Versace combines bold, print two-piece with minimalist bandeaus. Defining her striking collection as “the way women live their lives today, mixing tailoring with sportswear and effortless glamour". This season the suit has been pulled apart and re-imaged. Vetements and Public School take the slouchy, relaxed attitude one step further. Infusing street style edge. A fusion of masculine power, comfort and style. A reinvention of a timeless trend.

Saint Laurent, Le Smoking, 1967

Of course, this is a trend influenced by current social and political advances. 30% Club’s five year goal to increase the amount of women at the top of UK companies has been achieved. Meryl Streep, Helena Bonham Cater and Carey Mulligan team together in the  Hollywood blockbuster, Suffragette. A movement still painfully relevant today. But, both feminism and fashion have come a long way. The relaxed suit embodies these advances. As the infamous blog Man Repeller celebrates, fashion has become experiential, expressive. Women no longer dress for men but for themselves. Long gone are the days of Georgio Armani and Ralph Lauren’s 1980’s ‘Power Suit’. No longer confined to the walls of the boardroom, todays relaxed tailoring marks a contemporary vision. Designers response to the demands of the 21st century Modern Woman.